WHERE:
Côte d’Azur (Nice, Eze, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Paul-de-Vence)
WHERE WE STAYED:
Airbnb LUXURY Loft IN CITY CENTER, Nice
HOW LONG:
Seven nights
FAVORITE MEAL:
La Guinguette at Hôtel du Couvent
UNEXPECTED DISCOVERY:
Bespoke parfum class at Galimard (Eze)
Some places you visit once and file away as “been there.” Others call you back, memories you can’t quite shake.
Nice falls into the latter category.
My husband and I returned to Nice this September with his brother + sister-in-law, which was our second time in two years.
He was again competing in the Ironman World Championships, and I was there to cheer him on and happily rediscover why this corner of France captured me as a young adult.
What struck me most? The things that enchanted me then still seem magical – perhaps even more so.
Rather than give you a play-by-play of every croissant or gelato consumed, I’m sharing what actually matters – the details that make the difference between a good trip and one you’ll remember long after your tan fades.
Choosing Where to Sleep
Let’s start with the basics because for me, the accommodations can make or break a trip.
We always opt for apartments over hotels, when possible. There’s something about having your own place that allows you to feel like a local, aka fantasize about what it would be like to live somewhere else.
I love that feeling of having to figure it out on your own and shopping the local markets that feels like authentic living rather than just visiting.
After 15+ years of Airbnb bookings, I’ve developed what my friends call an “uncanny ability” to find gems. Here’s my process, because the details matter:
- Before you even look: Define your non-negotiables. Do you need quiet for sleeping? Air conditioning? An elevator? Space to spread out? Do you want to be in someone’s home or a turn-key property? Know these first.
- Then dive deep: Read every review twice. Look for patterns. When someone mentions “charming,” does that translate to “cramped”? When they say “authentic,” are we talking “no air conditioning in August”?
- Ask the right questions: Is the bedroom on a busy street? (In September, you’ll want those windows open.) Is there a lively café downstairs? (Charming at 7 PM, less so at 7 AM.) How’s the mattress? The water pressure? These aren’t trivial details—they’re the difference between good sleep and great memories.
The apartment we chose was bright, funky, and perfectly imperfect. Exactly what we needed. It was called LUXURY LOFT IN CITY CENTER
How to Spend Your Time
September in Nice moves at a different pace. The summer crowds have thinned, the heat has softened, and there’s that bittersweet awareness that these warm days are numbered. You find yourself savoring each one a little more intentionally.
If you plan to visit Nice, here are some highlights :
Monday morning, we beelined it to the Cours Saleya flea market – cash only, and worth every euro. I will always scope out the local flea market wherever I am. I love finding treasures that complement my style. My imagination runs wild with stories of who used to own these pieces that speak to me – it’s a connection to history.
The farmer’s market became our daily ritual, choosing vegetables that would become dinner and talking with vendors who patiently helped me wrestle with French numbers.
Some evenings we cooked with ingredients from our market hauls – roasted chicken from the corner butcher paired with whatever looked perfect that day. Other nights? Gelato for dinner at Nice Cream near the Promenade des Anglais, because some rules are meant to be broken.
The walk through the old city and up to Parc de la Colline du Château is worth the climb. The view of the city spreading below, the sea stretching forever is spectacular.
But the experience that will stay with me longest happened in Eze: the perfume-making class at Galimard. A lifetime dream realized in the most unexpected way. Creating my own fragrance felt like capturing something essential—not just about the trip, but about this moment in my life. The scent I crafted will soon join my Fleurie skincare line (more on that journey to come).
La Guinguette at Hôtel du Couvent became our celebration spot—first for a long, lazy lunch under white umbrellas in their hillside garden, then again on our last night for our 29th anniversary and my husband’s race completion.
This elegant yet simple spot reminded me of being with my family long ago, when my parents would ooh and ahh over what I thought was simply sitting outside to eat. But this is sitting outside to eat under the olive trees, amongst the lavender, looking out to the sunwashed buildings of the old city in the distance.
The Hôtel du Couvent recently opened and the setting was so perfect that I’m already plotting to break my own “no hotels” rule next time. Sometimes a place just captures you.
What to Bring Home
Being a style coach means my eye is always working, even on vacation. I make it a point to find the local flea market wherever I travel—it’s where you discover those one-of-a-kind pieces that can’t be replicated. These finds become the storytellers in your home, each one carrying a memory of where you’ve been and what spoke to you in that moment.
I will also always try to find the best shops by poking around. These are the spots worth your time, should you dedicate some time to shopping:
- Delphes: Modern silhouettes that travel well
- Isabel Marant: Always worth a look, especially here
- Twinset Milano: Unexpected finds
- Galeries Lafayette: For that one perfect piece
- Cosi: Local charm with substance
Permission to Do Nothing
One thing I’ve learned about traveling at this stage of life: you don’t need to see everything to see what matters. Our mornings became sacred – coffee on the balcony, planning nothing more ambitious than a walk to the market or a drive along the coast, unless it was race day of course.
There’s something powerful about giving yourself permission to move at your own pace, especially in a place as naturally unhurried as the Côte d’Azur. The blue skies, yellow buildings, and salt air make this place so easy to enjoy yourself.
I’m not much of a beach person, but I found myself drawn to watching the daily ritual of beachgoers painstakingly navigating the rocky shoreline to reach the water. I kept thinking, you imagine lounging on the Côte d’Azur as the height of relaxation, but observing this cautious choreography made me wonder – is it? HA!
My suggestion: invest in thick water shoes. Stylish ones, of course.
Until next time, stay intentional in all you do.
xo, Hardie
